Thursday, 26 July 2012

How to Capture Your Own Jazzy Streaks of the City Lights: A Subtopic to the Trick Photography Book Review

One of the most common or rather classic examples of long exposures trick photography shots are the city and speeding traffic lights.
pic_04
pic_05

The bright, yet colorful speeding lights of city life always give us this jazzy, cozy feeling that rose above the seemingly mechanical way of living. I had myself fallen into this fascination once. I was into this notion before that the city and what it is made up are nothing but simple heaps of gray materials for its inhabitants to live in and metal caskets to transport them back and forth. No sooner have I changed my opinion on this when a friend showed me his city lights captures and I was into it since then.
The concept behind capturing city lights and speeding traffic lights is long exposure. This is where your camera’s shutter speed is set in manual or in a BULB mode. If you hold your finger down the shutter for about 10 seconds then you will get a 10-second amount of exposure and so with 30 seconds, 50 seconds and so on. This explains the phenomenon why you can’t see actual cars in this kind of images because with the time amount of exposure, the bodies of the cars that are in constant motion had not enough light to shine on them; where the light is responsible for the object’s visibility. All you have to remember when taking this trick photoshots with your camera firmly fastened to a tripod to make sure that the shutter will not move or be moved about while it is open for that long exposure. After which, you will do some photo-manipulation on a trick photography software.

pic_06
For more of this “light painting” and long exposure trick photography ideas, you might want to check some trick pictures book available for download. 

----------->You Can Download It Here<------------

Wednesday, 25 July 2012

How to Photograph Lightning

Lightning is one of the hardest photographic subjects to shoot successfully. It's great fun but you need a fair bit of luck to capture a well exposed, well composed scene filled with interesting lightning bolts.

The key to getting good shots is to be well prepared and get the camera's settings just right. After that it's a case of being patient and taking enough photos to give yourself a good chance that one or two will hit the mark.



Before heading out in search of a storm, you'll need the following equipment:

Digital SLR - Compact cameras respond too slowly and don't give you enough control over their settings, making a DSLR a must for lightning photography.

Sturdy tripod - You'll be using long exposures (perhaps 30 seconds or more), so some sort of camera support is essential.

Cable/remote release - Pressing the shutter button by hand causes vibrations which can result in a blurry photo. A cable or remote shutter release will eliminate this problem.

Lens - Lightning can be photographed using almost any focal length lens, but a wide angle zoom (around 28-150mm) gives a good range of possibilities. Make sure the lens has a switch to put it into manual focus mode, as you'll be using that to lock the focusing at infinity.

You want to position yourself around 6 to 10 miles away from the storm. Getting closer can be dangerous, and makes it difficult to shoot the lightning effectively. Setting up any further away can lead to the strikes appearing too small or dull in the final photo.

The easiest way to judge how far away you are is to count the time between a lightning bolt and the crack of thunder. At a distance of 6 miles this time is 30 seconds.

Try to position yourself at right angles to the storm so that it moves across your field of view rather than towards or away from you. This is safer and keeps the storm in view for longer, giving you a better chance of getting some good pictures..

If possible, stay under the cover of a building or overhang. This will keep you and your equipment dry if you get hit by a sudden downpour.

For safety, don't stand within 50 feet of any tall objects like trees, overhead cables, or metal poles. Similarly, don't use an umbrella. If shooting from a distance less than 6 miles, it's best to do so from within a building or car.

A lightning bolt lasts just a fraction of a second, and I used to wonder how photographers and their cameras could react quickly enough to capture them. As it turns out, they can't. However, each initial strike is closely followed by a series of secondary bolts, and it's these you capture.

Begin by setting up your camera on its tripod and connecting the cable/remote release. Watch the storm for a few minutes and note where most of the activity is taking place, and which direction the storm is moving.

Aim your camera at the point with most lightning bolts, or slightly ahead so that you can follow its movement. Looking through the viewfinder, choose a focal length that includes the lightning in the frame and which gives a pleasing composition.

Using either automatic or manual focusing, focus on something in the far distance. If your lens is marked with an "infinity" focus distance, you can use that. Once you're happy with the focusing, switch the lens to manual mode. This will stop the camera trying to adjust the focus distance, and also speed up the camera's reaction time when you press the shutter button.

Next, you have to be patient. Sit with your finger on the cable release and watch the sky carefully. Press the release as soon as you see a bolt of lightning, and with a bit of luck you'll capture some of the secondary lightning strikes in your photo.


Tuesday, 24 July 2012

Snow Photography and Special Effects (DSLR Tutorial)



Equipment used in video:
  • LED Lenser X21 Flashlight - This thing is a beast. Extremely reliable and bright. I use it all the time for all sorts of reasons. Definitely worth the investment. The X21 is that it is a continuous lighting solution, not a short burst of light like flashes are. Continuous lighting lengthens motion, flashes freeze motion.
  • Nikon D300s DSLR  - This is just the camera I use. ANY DSLR can produce the results you see in the video.
  • Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 Lens - I use this lens for pretty much all of my work.
  • Manfrotto 055XPROB Tripod with Manfrotto 496RC2 BallHead - Mounting your camera to a tripod is absolutely essential in order to eliminate camera-shake.
  • Optional: You can mount the X21 to a tripod by using an X21 tripod mount. When I was outside, I didn't want to lug around two big tripods for both my flashlight and camera, so I conveniently mounted the X21 to the Joby GP8-BHEN Gorillapod Focus with Ballhead X.
LED Lenser X21 Flashlight mounted on the Gorillapod tripod
Here are the results:
_D3S1002
_D3S1331
_D3S1031
_D3S1329 (2)
_D3S1340
Another idea I got only after it was done snowing would be to take a ~1 second exposure of the on-camera flash in burst mode, where it flashes rapidly multiple times. I'd love to try it at different speeds and show the results, I'm definitely thinking the faster speeds would look best. If you have a camera that has a burst flash mode feature.
Have fun!





Are you tired of taking boring photos of the same mundane subject matter? Wouldn't you rather take your photography to the next level and photograph things that catch people's attention? If you would like to get the complete scoop and learn how to take more creative and unique shots with your DSLR, pick up my Trick Photography and Special Effects e-book and video course today!